June 9, 2009

Snakes, Souqs, Soup & Sausage: Marrakech

Marrakech's center is the D'Jeema el-Fna within it's fortified-walled medina. Formerly used for public executions, the large square now hosts fearless snake-charmers, pushy juice sellers, smokey food stalls, and tribal musicians. People sell everything from teeth to tanjines (pots used for cooking a tajine). We arrived at the square in the evening just before sunset when the action is at its peak.



Lindsey carefully navigated the crowd to avoid snake-holding men and was a bit unnerved whenever she heard the charmer's oboe playing.



We bought some dried fruit, and sat down for the world's best sausages, lentil soup, and fresh bread.



The next day we wandered the city's endless souqs, or marketplaces. Along the way we stopped at Bahia Palace, boasting floor to ceiling painted, tiled, inlaid, and gilded masterpieces that took 15 years to complete. The garden courtyards are a great refuge from the cramped nearby souqs.




Next we stopped by the 14th century Ben Youssef Madrasa, or Islamic theological school. Like the palace, this too showcased beautiful moorish architecture including mashrabiyya (wooden-latice screening) and move zellij (mosiac).



Back in the souqs we began a shopping spree. For most of the trip we've held off on large purchases since we didn't want the obligation of carrying them with us. With the trip's end in sight, we lost this concern.

Each purchase involved a lengthy sit-down discussion with the shop owner over hot tea. To refuse the tea would be rude and by our 4th or 5th shop our hearts were racing from both sugar and caffeine overload.

We bought a handmade leather bag, crafted in the nearby tanneries. Some Moroccan tea glasses to remember our many mandatory glasses of 'Moroccan whiskey' as they call it. Some ceramic tiles to be used as coasters. And finally, a carpet-fabric bag that fits nicely inside the first leather one. We're holding off on a few last purchases to be made in Fes.

We wandered so much that we were eventually lost in the tangled streets of the medina. A few dead-ends and 20 minutes later, we emerged at a gate through the rampart miraculously near the bus station. We bought tickets for our next stop: a white-washed coastal town called Essouria where we headed the next day.

After a few days in Essouria (next blog post) we returned to Marrakech for the morning where we stopped by the Jardin Majorelle, crafted by Yves Saint Laurent. It was a great oasis within a loud city.



Marrakech is an exciting city for all the senses and we loved it. Everyone should come here.

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